The birth of a new Stone Festival in Donegal

Last Thursday I packed my bags and pointed my car north for Donegal. I have been wanting to get to Donegal for some time but for some reason Donegal always seems so far away. But now I had a good excuse to free up some time (as if you need a good reason to go to Donegal)  

Mountcharles Sandstone Pier, Mountcharles, Co. Donegal

Turns out the trip up is not so bad at all, I even had time to stop off along the way at Loughcrew in County Meath to find the ancient stone seat known as The Hag's Chair a massive engraved kerbstone on the north side of Cairn T, at Loughcrew. I have mentioned this seat in a blog post before which you can read here. 

The Hag's Chair, Loughcrew, Co. Meath

After a good stretch of the legs and a crawl into the centre of Cairn T (a similar structure to Newgrange)  I got back in the car to finish my journey to Donegal. There were many other stone sites along my route which I wanted to visit, but I knew that this was going to be the first of what will become an annual pilgrimage to Donegal, and there would be plenty of opportunities to see these great sites down the line.

"So how's about getting to the point and tell us why you're going to Donegal" you are surely saying by now. 

Well as the title of the post suggests, my trip to Donegal was to be part of an exciting new stone festival that is to be an annual event in Donegal.

Organised by the Donegal branch of The Dry Stone Wall Association of Ireland  (DSWAI) with the support of the Donegal County Council and the ETB  the festival included dry stone wall building, stone letter cutting and carving, talks by master masons and sculptors and topped off with a tour of the local sandstone mine.

Dry Stone Walling 
The dry stone project was set in a picturesque setting along the Donegal coastline on the Wild Atlantic Way by the historic sandstone pier of Mountcharles. This area's rich stone heritage is ever evident, from the walls that line the coastline to the huge local sandstone blocks that form the beautiful Mountcharles Pier, from where the stone from the local quarries was shipped off to build many grand halls and churches around the country and abroad.

Mountcharles Pier

The task for the dry stone walling project was to rebuild a large section of wall that was washed away during a massive storm which left stones scattered over a large area of land it had once protected.

The footprint of the original wall

A pep talk by Rónán Crehan gets the building under way

Scottish Master Craftsman Nick Aitken keeping an eye over the footings  

A dry stone waller in the making

Stonemason Michael Mc Groarty splits and shapes stone to create gate posts

Stones plunged and feathered 

Placing the gate posts

Master Craftsman Sean Adcock from the North Wales branch of DSWA UK keeps local man Donagh O Callaghan and Canadian Jacob Murray on their toes  

The wall builders of day one

Nick Aitken and DSWAI treasurer Louise Price set copping stones 

An old Irish penny from 1941 found in the wall

There is an age old tradition of putting a time capsule in a wall as you build. This is often in the form of a bottle or a coin. I found this old penny from 1941 in between the stones of the original wall footings. I too regularly throw a few coins into a wall (the amount depending on how plush I am feeling at the time) I made sure to throw a few euros into this wall as well for some other mason to find down the line in another 100 years or so.

Rónán Crehan posing in 'stile'

Built using stone from the original wall and recycled stone from a old cottage, all of the stone used is the local sandstone. Over the course of two days over 45 yards of wall was built by a team of about 40 participants per day.  

The finished wall

Stone Carving and Letter cutting Workshop with Brendan McGloin
Located just 500 meters from Mountcharles pier is the lovely Salthill Gardens, the courtyard of which was the location of our stone carving workshops. As you walk towards the gardens from the pier, the soft tapping sounds of hammer on chisel can be heard coming over the high stone walls of the gardens that protect the lush and delicate garden inside from the harsh salty sea air.

Carving at Salthill Gardens

Up to 12 students per day got to try their hand at letter cutting and stone carving

 Kieran Keeney sharpening chisels

Landscape architect Dave Ryan feels at home, surrounded by plants and stone as he carves

The carving workshops were run by sculptor Brendan Mc Gloin who has been working with stone for over 25 years. His legacy to date includes an incredible full scale replica of the high cross of the scriptures at Clonmacnoise. The cross took almost three years to complete and is an incredible site to behold. The finished cross now sits on the summit of Mt Calvary, Portland Oregon, USA. Brendan also gave a fascinating talk and media presentation over the weekend that gave a wonderful insight into the enormity of the project. Click here to see a short 6min film about this work.    

Brendan and his recreation of the cross (Image copyright of Brendan Mc Gloin)

Nick and Louise look in wonder at Brendan McGloin's model of the Clonmacnoise High Cross of which Brendan carved a stunning full scale replica over a 3 year period. 

One of Brendan's carvings on display at Salthill Gardens

A trip to the mines

One of the highlights of the festival was a tour of the sandstone mines of Drumkeelan just a mile northwest of Mountcharles. 

The entrance to the mine

Rónán giving a description on the surface quarry.

Arriving at the quarry entrance

We are met at the entrance of the mine by local historian Eamonn Monaghan, who also gave a fascinating talk at the festival the day before about the history of the stone industry in the area.

Around 300 million years ago in the Carboniferous period Donegal Bay was much larger than in the present day.  It stretched from Killybegs in the west, through Lough Eske in the centre, to Laghy in the east. The Carboniferous rivers were eroding the same hills as we see today (although these would have been much higher and less rounded) carrying sediment into the bay to form the sandstones which occur around Drumkeelan and upon which the stonemasonry industry in the area is based.

In the townland of Drumkeelan, northwest of Mountcharles, is a rock outcrop known as Drumkeelan mine. This site has a very long history of stone mining, back to at least the late 12th century. It provided high quality stone suitable for monumental work and masonry. Some important public buildings, such as the National Museum of Ireland, the National Library, Leinster House (the Dail) and Sligo Town Hall used Drumkeelan stone in their construction. The mine was active up till the 1950's

The effort put into the tour was outstanding. The entire mine shaft was lit up using candles and lamps, just like it would have been during the times it was in use.

One of the original miners oil lamps

Peter, Deirdre and family explore the mines

Sandstone is much softer when it is first taken out of the ground, as it is exposed to the elements the silts wash out of it and it becomes much harder to work. For this reason it was more economical to mine the stone rather than opencast it.

In the mine a weak layer of silt material above the sandstone was removed first making a small space, allowing blocks of stone to be wedged up from their beds and removed. They would then be moved through the mines shaft with the aid of rollers and bars.  As the stone was extracted,  the roof would be supported mainly by a pack of waste stone stacked to the sides like dense dry stone walls. The Abbey Assaroe was built in 1180, so it is known that quarrying started around this time. A carved sandstone lamp found in the mine suggests mining could have already started in the middle ages. Locally the stone was used to build the Killybegs Coastguard Station, the Provincial Bank in Ballyshannon, the Town Hall in Sligo and St Eunan and St Columba Cathedral in Letterkenny

Arriving at a larger chamber, Eamonn stops to sing us a song he wrote about the mine to commemorate the miners who worked there. Click on the video below to hear his song.

For those of you who want to sing along here are the words.

'The Ballad of the Drumkeelan Mines' by local historian Eamonn Monaghan which commemorates the miners:

Deep underneath Drumkeelan, there in the freestone mines each day,
With miners' lamps to light us, we work the hours away,
We punch the holes along the line, in each we place a wedge,
And when they're right & ready, we give each one the sledge,
CHORUS
So swing the hammers high and swing the hammers low,
We must get these blocks out, today before we go,
The stone cutters are all waiting, for these are busy times,
In the Valley of Drumkeelan, where we're working in the Mines.

The stone it is above us, the stone is all around,
Our block is on the rollers, our crowbars on the ground,
We lever it so slowly, along the smooth mine floor,
And when we have it outside, sure we must go back for more,

There's a big Cathedral rising in Letterkenny Town,
They need stone for schools & halls, from here to Co. Down,
For Halls in Derry City and Sligo banks as well,
Sure, we cannot mine it fast enough, the truth to you I'll tell,

Mulreany comes from Drumnalost, here to his work each day,
The Brogans & the Harkins from Drumconnor make their way,
The Hegartys & Harveys & the Bogles come along,
With Wards from Drumagearah they make a jolly throng,

They walk it every morning, from miles & miles around,
To share their skills & ancient crafts and toil beneath the ground,
Like the monks of good St Bernard in far off distant times,
Who worked & prayed for God & Man within these very Mines,

Hearing this song sung deep in the mines was quite special. Encouraged by our applause, Eamonn went on to recite a poem he also wrote about the mines (see video below) 

When researching the mines, Eamonn wanted to get a real sense what it would have been like in there for the workers. He once spent a full week in the mines sleeping on the mine floor absorbing the complete stillness within the shafts. 

The great thing about this mine is that unlike limestone caves and mines, it is not exposed to the same kind of erosion. There are no stalactites to obscure the views. These sandstone mines are completely sterile and are exactly the same as they were in the 1950’s. Down here, I am reminded of my trip to the salt mines in Poland (read about that trip here)

Returning to the surface, evidence can be seen of how modern quarrying is destroying the mines. In the picture below, old mine shafts are hidden behind the heaps of rubble. The rock that would have been the mine roof is broken down into smaller building stone mainly used for building walls and cladding houses. (a 20 ton truck load of this stone was also donated to The Gathering of Stones project as you might remember) 

Today there is only two of the mine shafts remaining. There is talk of preserving the last two so that the history of these mines will live on and that more people will be able to come and experience these wonderful tours. Let us hope the powers that be step up and help preserve this unique piece of our heritage before it is too late. One ponders on what a wonderful unique tourist attraction this could make!    

Rónán and Jacob modelling the festival Tshirts. You can order your festival Tshirt through the DSWAI website here  

And so with the end of the tour, so too came an end to our festival. And with one last step through the 'stile' I said my farewells to Donegal and its fine people, hoping to return again soon. Now in the knowledge that I am only a comfortable 3 hour drive away I am sure I will be back a lot sooner than the next Tirconnell Stone Festival. 

From left DSWAI Chairman Sunny Wieler, festival organiser Louise Price, Canadian Jacob Murray and festival organiser Rónán Crehan  

Finnaly I would like to say a big thanks to everyone involved in making this event happen. From the quarry men to the admin people, to the tea lady and stone gatherers and of course the different organisations and local councillors who helped make it happen. 

Here in Donegal I felt a great sense of pride of county and of its stone heritage that I have not experienced to the same level in other counties. This festival is a credit to the craft and the people of Donegal. Let the dry stone revolution continue.....  

The ancient salt mines of Wieliczka, a blog post from Poland

A few weeks ago, my wife had to go to Krakow for a conference, so we decided to make a city break out of it as neither of us had been to Poland before. Krakow is a fantastic city, which I would highly recommend a visit to, and which I have added to my list of best city breaks ever. One of the highlights of the trip was a visit to the salt mines at Wieliczka just outside of Krakow. This is probably the most fascinating place I have ever visited, and is about as close as you can get to being in the mines of Moria from the Lord of the Rings. So it comes as no surprise that 1.2 million people visit the Wieliczka Salt Mine annually.

The salt mine in Wieliczka is a unique development in the history of mining, because the rock salt deposits were mined here without interruption from the early 13th century to the end of the 20th century. The scale of excavation in this mine is very large, with corridors, galleries, chambers, underground lakes, as well as minor and major shafts, which are located over nine levels and extend for the total of about 300 kilometres, reaching a depth of 327 metres

The largest collection of original tools and mining equipment illustrating the development of mining technology from the Middle Ages to modern times have also been preserved here.

The mine also features a 3.5-km touring route for visitors (less than 1% of the length of the mine's passages) that includes historic statues and mythical figures. The oldest sculptures were carved out of rock salt by miners, and more recent figures have been fashioned by contemporary artists.

The Daniłowicz Shaft

Our tour began by descending 378 steps down the wooden staircase in the Daniłowicz Shaft into the mine on Level I at 64 meters below.

As you enter the chambers, timber beams prop-up parts of the chambers, over time these timber beams have soaked up so much salt that they have become rock solid themselves. The salty air that preserves the wood down in the mines is free of bacteria and allergens, which is also beneficial to asthma sufferers, and for this reason the mines also include an Underground Rehabilitation and Treatment Centre, that operates as a non-public healthcare centre. The Centre is the world leader in providing innovative rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory system diseases basing on the best practices of contemporary medicine, while profiting from the natural micro-climate of underground salt excavations which cannot be recreated on the surface of the earth.

The Mikołaj Kopernik Chamber

We then ventured on to the next chamber, which was named after Nicolaus Copernicus, who was one of the first tourists to visit Wieliczka Mine. On the 500th anniversary of the famous astronomer’s birth, this salt rock carving ‘Copernicus’ by sculptor Władysław Hapek was added to the chamber. This was the second time that day I discovered a famous historical person to be polish (the other being the great Chopin)

An old doorway off one of the chambers

Saint Anthony’s Chapel

From here we went on to the first of many chapels carved out by the miners. This one being oldest fully preserved chapel in the mine, is the 17th century Baroque Saint Anthony’s Chapel. Most of the photos here were taken be me, but unfortunately as it is a mine, it is dark and cramped, my amateur photography skills along with my holiday snap digital camera meant I was unable to properly capture parts of the mines, so I have added a few pictures from the mines website.

The Janowice Chamber

The life-sized salt statues by the sculptor Mieczysław Kluzek illustrate one of the oldest and the most beautiful legends of the Wieliczka Mine. When the Hungarian Princess Kinga married the Polish Prince Boleslaus the Chaste, she received as dowry one of the salt mines in the Marmaros region, she cast her engagement ring into the mine. The ring miraculously travelled to Wieliczka together with the salt deposits, and was found in the first block of white gold dug in Wieliczka.

The rock salt is naturally grey in various shades, so the carvings resemble unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look that many visitors expect.

The Casimir the Great Chamber

In the Casimir the Great Chamber is a carving of King Casimir the Great, who organised and set in the form of a statute the law regulating the management of the salt mines. Back in medieval times salt used to be one of the world's biggest and most profitable industrial establishments, commercially a medieval equivalent of today's oil.

The Pieskowa Skała Chamber

The Holy Cross Chapel

As we travel through one fantastic chamber after another passing many rock carvings and cordoned off corridors that make up part of the 300 kilometres of tunnels and climbing deeper and deeper into the ground, at 101 meters down, we arrive the most spectacular chambers of the entire mines, the Saint Kinga’s Chapel.

The Saint Kinga’s Chapel

The Saint Kinga’s Chapel

The Saint Kinga’s Chapel is the most impressive and opulent of underground temples. The chamber, carved in a block of salt, has been a place of worship since 1896. The chapel ornamentation has been created over a period of more than a hundred years. From late 19th century until 1963, the sculpting was conducted by self-taught miners-sculptors, Józef and Tomasz Markowski and Antoni Wyrodek. Their work is continued by the new generation of miners, who create new sculpting projects.

Saint Kinga’s Chapel

The bas-reliefs and sculptures which decorate the chapel walls are scenes from the New Testament

bas-reliefs carved into the salt rock of various scenes from the bible

Alter, Saint Kinga’s Chapel

If you fancy getting married here, they do occasionally have weddings and church services down here.

Tiles carved into the floor of Saint Kinga’s Chapel

The floors of the chapel are craved to look like tiles.

various bas-reliefs from around the chapel

Chandeliers made from salt

Even the crystals of the chandeliers are made from rock salt that has been dissolved and reconstituted to achieve a clear, glass-like appearance.

The Erazm Barącz Chamber

From here we pass one of the underground lakes in the The Erazm Barącz Chamber. This chamber owes it allure to a small salt lake, 9 m in depth, filled with brine, a saturated solution of salt. The wooden gallery around the highest part of the chamber gallery is used to monitor the condition of the salt walls. Of particular interest is also the salt pillar, which is a natural way of securing the excavated chambers.

The Drozdowice Chamber

Farther along at a depth of 110.6 m, we come to the Drozdowice Chamber, where a salt rock carving depicts two carpenters, a testament to all the skilled carpenters which constructed all the amazing timber structures that hold up large portions in the mines. The chamber itself was created as a result of excavating a vertical block of green salt in the early 20th century, the chamber was protected by constructing a casing as and a two-level wooden construction connected by platforms and galleries. In 2000, after renovation works which lasted for ten years, the chamber was reincorporated as part of the Tourist Route. At present, the chamber is a venue where exhibitions, concerts and banquets are held.

The Weimar Chamber

Another fascinating chamber was the Weimar Chamber. It was created in the early 20th century, after a block of green salt was excavated by machines. In the 1960s the bottom of the chamber was flooded with brine, and a lake was created.

The Józef Piłsudski Chamber

After descending down more timber staircases to 130.9 m underground, we came to another one of the underground lakes, in the Józef Piłsudski Chamber.

The chamber was created by combining the excavations of two adjacent blocks of green salt. In the 1830s, the Austrians linked the twin chambers with a 10-m tunnel when setting up the first tourist route. They also built wooden stairs and a platform, and filled the bottom of the chamber with brine. A special tourist attraction was provided by raft crossing through the tunnel to the accompaniment of fireworks and music played by the mine orchestra. Of particular interest is also the 19th-century figure of Saint John Nepomucene, the patron saint of the drowning. Despite the saint’s presence in the chamber, there was a  case of mutable drownings here. Apparently back during the Nazi occupation of Poland, the Germans used the salt mines as a base, one evening a group of intoxicated German solders decided to go out for a boat ride, which resulted in the raft capsizing, and in all onboard drowning

The Warszawa Chamber

After passing through many more fascinating chambers, and even a stop for a nice cold polish beer, in the bar and restaurant at 132m down, we passed another large more modern chamber, named the Warszawa Chamber. The chamber was excavated in the 19th century by digging a total of 20,000 tons of salt. Due to its impressive size and the décor, the chamber is used for various events, such as conferences, training sessions and banquets.

There are many fantastic chambers to see (20 in total) over the 3 hour tour of the Wieliczka salt mines, too many in fact to talk about as this blog post is already becoming epic. The last chamber I will mention is the last chapel you pass before being transported back to the surface by a four-level dark old mining lift from a depth of 135.6 m.

The Saint John’s Chapel

The Saint John Chapel (also known as the Holy Cross Chapel) is considered to be the mine’s most beautiful wooden chapel. The polychrome barrel-vault ceiling of the chapel holds an altar with crucifix set against a multi-coloured panorama of Jerusalem. On the ceiling, a painting of the Holy Trinity against a setting of a blue sky is placed. The most precious object in the chapel is an 18th-century figure of Christ Crucified.

Well I could continue to waffle on about this fantastic place, just as I could continue to wander around it, but as I am righting a blog post and not a book I will leave it at that. I would only recommend to you that you visit Krackow and the salt mines at Wieliczka, as it is one of the most amazing places you are likely to see. As one travelled Frenchman observed in the 18th century, Krakow's Wieliczka salt mine is no less magnificent than the Egyptian pyramids.

For more great information on this place check out there website http://www.kopalnia.pl/